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M1939 Jackboots

Complete with hobnails and heel irons

After being dyed and treated using available dye kit

Reproduction M1939 Jackboots
New jackboots. A pair of mint, unissued, early pattern Model 1939 Jackboots was used for the pattern. They are made from heavy vegetable tanned leather featuring rough-out toe and flesh side shafts. Soles and heels are also leather. Pullstraps are tan cotton HBT web. 7 sided Hobnails and flanged heel irons are correct reproduction WWII pattern.
The only detail we could not replicate was the wood peg construction on the soles. I know, we'll be cast into the eternal fires of farb-hell by a handful of devout stitch nazis for this assault on their authenticity. Most of these peg fascists are so damned fat that they risk asphyxiation if they bend over far enough to even glimpse their shoes in the first place much less count pegs. Anyway, who would be so insensitive as to criticize girth? Even alluding to the farb factor of beer bellies is akin to pointing out that Jesus' casting of demons into a few thousand pigs and inspiring them to commit suicide was an overt act of animal cruelty (not to mention the ruin of some poor farmers' livelihood). Anyway...if you're a wood peg nazi, leave us alone. And no, we don't know whether it's possible to drill holes in the soles in order to glue in toothpicks to imitate pegs. (Yes, several future astronauts have really asked this question.)
Fit: Accurate. These are not oversized like our other boots. Order your normal US shoe size. If you wear a half size, order the next size larger. If the boots feel snug, try removing the insoles. They are 1/8" thick rubber and can make the boots snug on your toes.
Hobnails and heel irons: All boots come with hobnails and heel irons already installed. Yes, these look like W.W.II nails. They are reproductions. Hobnails are like tires, they will eventually wear out or fall out. (If you lose a few hobnails, that doesn't count as a defect. Originals lose them too. You must use a shoe last to install them!
Shafts: 17-18" (44-46cm) circumference, 13"-13.5" (33-34cm) tall, depending on the boot size.
Construction: Rough-out toe, flesh side upper.
Toe: The ever-intimidating "shark nose" profile.
Color: These will be made in natural brown, just as the original WWII boots were. A black sample was made, but inky jet black simply doesn't look right. It's "unauthentic" anyway.
Alternative drying techniques 101: Do NOT dry these with a clothes dryer or next to an open flame. They will fossilize. We thought that this went without saying, but alas, we were wrong. Again. If you get them wet, simply air dry them. We're talking atmosphere here, not a Maytag.
Dye Service: We do not offer dying services of any kind. If you want them blacked, you must do that yourself. This is as they were issued in W.W.II. Blacking was up to the soldier. If you wish to dye them black we now offer dye kits.

Price: $200.00

M1939 Jackboot Availability
"Fit": Unlike our other boots which run big, these are "on the money". If you wear a half size, order the next size up. Examples: If you wear an 11, order an 11. If you wear an 11 1/2, order a 12.
Size 8D	In Stock
Size 9D	In Stock
Size 10D	In Stock
Size 11D	In Stock
Size 12D	Sold Out
Size 13D	Sold Out

Quick FAQ
No! These boots are not related in any way to the past reproduction jackboots we carried several years ago. These are totally different animals. They have not one scrap of DNA in common. We have contracted these directly with the manufacturer. The last two batches were "brokered" by SM and then Interordnance. In those cases we received a good quality sample, followed by seriously flawed shipments.
These boots are made by the same company that has made all of our other boots in the last year and a half. Our problems have been very few and far between with their products. They have consisted of a few loose eyelets and some lost hobnails. No paper thin leather or soles falling off.
Why brown? I agonized over this. Honestly. But we had a sample made in black and it simply didn't look right. Originals started out brown, and usually have a bit showing through. Inky jet black looks wrong. This was not a scheme to sell dye or another one of my sadistic stunts. We won't dye them here as it takes too long for the boots to dry and we don't have the space to spare for rows of wet boots. This worked out well for the Luftwaffe and WWI re-enactors anyway.
Sizes? 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13.
Half sizes, Wides, or Narrows?? Nope.
Bigger Calves for athletic figures? These are 18 inches. That's all we'll have. A skilled cobbler might be able to enlarge them by opening up the back and adding a piece, but we aren't sure and we don't offer such a service.
Custom order me a pair? No. Not possible. Unless you want 700 pairs...
Officer Boots? No. Not in the near future.
Boots without hobnails to preserve the paint on my kooblekar? No. You'll have to pry them out yourself or have a cobbler resole them with rubber soles if you're doing a SS Ninja impression.

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Dye Kits
As our German lowboots and jackboots are made "as issued" in natural brown, we are now carrying a kit for those who wish to dye their boots black. Original boots were dyed by the soldiers they were issued to with black polish. This dye and finish is much less labor intensive than hours of buffing and rubbing required when using only polish to do the job. We do not offer this service ourselves due to time constraints.
The kit contains 4 oz. of black dye, 4 oz. of leather balm, and two daubers. This is enough to do at least two pairs of jackboots (possibly three) or 4-5 pairs of lowboots.
$10.00
Dye Kits can no longer be shipped out of the lower 48 states. Ground shipping only!
No international orders! (Including Canada.)
No Second Day or Overnite.
Some genius with customs has decided that the dye is a hazardous material that might suddenly explode and cause a plane crash. Sorry, looks like we are dumber than the muslims ever dreamed.

Instructions: This is very easy, but it is possible to make a helluva mess if you fail to use your head.(Yes, such dumbed-down advisories are really this necessary. 98% of our customers are not brain-dead morons. We know and appreciate this fact, despite the way I sound at times. But that last 2% of specially challenged individuals make these pithy tirades obligatory. After exploding microwaves full of helmets and uniforms soaked in buckets of bleach...there is no telling what sort of atrocity some yo-yo can commit with a bottle of black dye.)

1. Try the boots on. Make sure they are the correct size and that you are happy with them. Just like washed uniforms, we will not accept dyed boots for refund or exchange. Again, once you dye them, they are yours.
2. Find a suitable, well ventilated area. "Suitable", like the driveway, the yard or a workbench in the garage. If in doubt, put down several layers of old newspapers or a drop cloth. The black dye is very black. It's comparable to ink. It turns everything it touches black. It will ruin carpet, upholstery or clothing. Unless you have a death wish or are a complete moron, DO NOT do this on the living room carpet or the kitchen counter. Your parents, life partner or landlord will appreciate your foresight. Rubber gloves aren't a bad idea. It will wash off your fingers. Eventually. But they'll be gray for a few days.

3. Apply the dye with the enclosed dauber. One coat is ample! Only coat the outside of the boots. DO NOT dye the insides, or else you'll have gray feet and socks each time you wear them. It is not necessary to coat the bottom of the soles.

4. Allow the boots to dry 2-3 hours. If you apply the balm before the dye is totally dry, it will take longer for the boots to dry completely.

5. Apply the leather balm. This is easier to do with an old rag, but the dauber will work. The rag is better because it allows you to work the balm into the boots, much like you do with mink oil or Neetsfoot oil. Again, a single coat will do the trick. There is no need to drown the boots. The balm seals the surface of the boots and prevents the dye from leeching. If you do NOT use the balm, it is possible for some dye to rub off on things (uniforms, shirts, duffel bag) that come in contact with them. Allow the boots to dry overnight.

6. Done. Now you can polish or waterproof the boots if you wish.

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