At the Front - War on Fraud

The War on Fraud

Last Updated: July 29, 2008

All collecting hobbies are beset by the same scourge. Counterfeits offered as authentic goods. This page is a general guide to protecting yourself from getting screwed by fraudulent sellers.
I am not going to get very specific. There are far too many niches in the W.W.II collecting hobby and the fakes change almost daily, so there is no "fail-safe" all inclusive guide.
I profess to know everything about nothing, although I have learned quite a bit in the last 20 years. Initially as re-enactor, then as an an accidental collector; accidental meaning I needed originals to use as guides to make reproductions. Trying to recreate them has led to a far better understanding of how they were made which in turn helps identify fakes. But far more important is something most of us are supposedly born with. Common sense. Whether or not you choose to act upon this skill is your choice and will make or break your success at collecting.
Note: "Reproduction"= any item made after May 1945.

A lot of people have misconceptions about what is correct and what is not. Some are a result of popular myths, or come from relying on simple assumptions backed up by little experience or inadequate research. So here it is: our attempt to disspell some of the most popular misconceptions concerning uniforms and gear in WWII collecting. Hopefully some of them will read, understand, and utilize it to help you avoid the pitfalls of the militaria market.

Specific Pages:We are slowly adding pages that specifically address certain items. What we have to offer is our accumilated knowledge from years of examining, repairing, and patterning original uniforms in order to perfect or improve our reproductions. I claim no specific expertise, I am not an author and I don't have any medallions awarded at a military show to hang around my neck. I take a rational, reasonably well educated and forensic approach to this whole affair. The information here will be true to the best of my knowledge and I'm quite prepared to be corrected now or in the future. The archive (link below) will be a perpetual work in progress cataloging my accumulated experiecne and purported knowledge of certain facets of WWII militaria.
Archive

General
Detecting fakes is often work. If that isn't your thing, then find a new hobby. The fakers work very diligently at making perfect copies to reap the financial rewards. Thus, it is only fitting and fair that those on a quest for originals need to know what the hell it is they are looking at. Be suspicious! It may not seem right or convenient, but it's known as a FACT. Get over it and learn to deal with it and things will be much easier.
There are four main types of fakes:
Reproductions: New made for whatever purpose.
Postwar alterations: Actual militaria, but restamped or in some way misrepresented to appear W.W.II. (Such as East German Y-straps with "SS RZM" stamps...special extra late war design!)
Wartime alterations: Original W.W.II militaria, modified in some way to increase the value. (Such as German helmets with camo added or Ike jackets with a 101st patch and a service number added.)
Reproductions made from original materials: Often impossible to detect. A high percentage of "original" German shoulder boards, soft caps and SS helmet covers fit this category.

The first two are usually the easiest to detect, but the last two can range from difficult to impossible depending on the skill of the forger.

It's not our job to police the militaria market.
Even if we wanted to, we cannot and could not police the militaria market. It's too big, the fakers are too determined and there will always be another sucker who won't listen to common sense. Our job is to satisfy the need for high quality reproductions for people who cannot afford or who choose to spend their money on more important things in life than $3,000 original (or maybe not..) German helmets and such.

We are quite aware of the fact that the majority of people are not trying to shaft anyone and that they simply want their gear and impression to be as realistic as humanly possible. They are our target audience.

Why are there reproductions in the first place?
Demand and need. Apparently, there have been reproductions since June of '45. The GI's were shelling out cash for Iron Crosses, so the Germans who owned some of the factories and shops helped them out. In later years, with the cost of original items skyrocketing, out and out deceit for financial gain has become the motive. However, a secondary, legitimate reason has developed. Supply and use. For one, there are far more enthusiasts who want a German paratrooper helmet, than there are paratrooper helmets. Nowadays, there are many enthusiasts who also cannot afford an original. Likewise, there is a large pool of re-enactors who do not want to destroy original items and or they can't find one to fit even if they did. Thus, there is a very legitimate demand and market for copies. Some illustrious collectors consider all reproductions criminal. Those morons need to wake up and realize that that is one fantasy that is both very wrong and one that is far too advanced to ever be satisfied anyway. The crime is when one is offered as the other.

Why don't we (manufacturers) mark reproductions as such? Why don't we just stamp "repro" on it and solve everything?
Because they don't sell and any faker who has even a minute amount of talent will remove, cover or obliterate the mark within 5 minutes. Most re-enactors and collectors who buy reproductions do so for honest reasons. They want to look as authentic as possible and or they want to fill out their collection, but cannot afford the real thing. The fact that a 400 pound paratrooper will never look authentic despite the proper stitch count on his trousers and that the mark could be so small that no one would notice it notwithstanding. It simply doesn't feel right. There are subtle clues to some markings, but not blatant ones. However, if you educate yourself, the label or stamps are the least of your worries. Many originals weren't marked in the first place. Likewise, say we did start marking "Warning! Repro!" on everything, within a few years anything without the warning would be declared authentic.

What can I do?
Educate yourself!
Education, education, education. Read, listen, watch and pay attention. Be patient. I know that is not in the vocabulary of the modern American "fulfill my desires now" generation, but try.
1. Make friends within the hobby. Whether you are a re-enactor, collector, modeller or closet nazi, there are others like you out there with more experience. Ask questions.
2. Reference books. Most of the new books available are pretty good. But I'm dismayed by some of the "detecting the fakes" type literature. They are often written by people with no skill in sewing, painting, or making the fakes. Much of the information is excellent, concerning numbers, markings and so forth. Pay attention to photos, both period and modern (of the items). However, just because it's in a book does NOT mean the author is correct. Or honest. Many of the "Bibles" contain fakes. Whether by accident or design is debatable.
3. Feel, fondle and study. Look at originals at shows. Some will not be original. This is where your friends may help.
4. Even if you only want to collect authentic items, study the reproductions. Become familiar with repros of whatever type item it is you want to collect. It might save your butt one day.

Use your head.

The item:
Not just your eyes. Rust can be "faked". Age can be inflicted. Stink can be applied. Just because it looks old does not mean that it is. Remember, re-enacting got going heavy in the 1970's. Some repros are 30 years old or more and saw a lot of use. If it's worn (not unissued) is the wear logical? If it's faded, it should still look new inside the pockets or under the collar. There's one clownish Peepa King at the Louisville area shows who has been painting helmets and trying to pass them off as real for over a decade. You can smell the paint halfway down the aisle! Not to mention the interesting combinations...Latvian SS medic....tropical....Not much luck for him. Many fakers are not clever.
Markings: Do not get too fixated on the "it's marked" concept. Learn what they mean, not how pretty they are. Many fakers use Soldbuch stamps in caps, have misspellings and use the wrong sizing marks. Learn how different uniforms are sized and check them. For example, one scumbag bought a 44 dot tunic from us. Size 50R. It was correctly marked "125" (that's a size 50 in centimeters) for the chest size. I called him out on it when he ran it on ebay (with a nice pic of the size stamps). He squalled, huffed and cursed me for falsely accusing him. Supposedly, he was selling his "original" and replacing it in his collection with our repro. "So, you have an original for a 300 pound SS guy?" The weasel disappeared. Be sure the size is about right, and keep in mind that most originals are small to medium sized. If it's BIG, be extra careful.

The seller:
This is the root of 95% of all the evil here. A skillful con artist will sell you first on himself, then the item. He wants to convince you that he's for real, so you'll believe whatever else he spews at you. Be suspicious of all dealers as long as you can. However, many honest dealers have been fooled and accidentally offer fakes. It does happen. Here's some basics:

Does the seller offer a guarantee? First and foremost. Does the seller offer a money back guarantee? Several prominent dealers offer lifetime guarantees. If at any time you feel the item is not real, they will take it back. Even if they give you a week or two to get second opinions, that speaks volumes about the seller's honesty. You may pay more, but it may be worth it.

All Sales Final = Fraud: Conversely, in most cases, dealers with adamant "no return" polices on original items is a 300 x 500 ft. red flag waving in a hurricane. Especially with online auction/ mail order purchases. All dealers are very aware of the rampant fraud in the militaria market. Any dealer who is confidant in their product won't be afraid to let you examine the item before making the final call; unless he's passing bullshit.

If it's too good to be true, you can damned well bet that it is. Why would the chatty little weasel at the Acme Militaria mart offer you an original FJ helmet for $800? When he should well know that they are usually $2500 plus? Unless you are buying from a vet (directly!!!) very few steals will be the real thing. Not the way you are wanting them to be anyway...

What else does he have for sale? Most scumbag dealers are smart enough to mix originals and repros as a camouflage of sorts. A few are too brazen (or stupid) to even try that. However, if he has a few items that you are certain are fake, and he is trying to sell them as real, you should walk away. He's a proven liar and that's that. If the item in which you are interested is reasonably priced, and you are very confident it's OK, then that's your call. But if it's questionable, you can bet he's lying.

Certificates of authenticity: Unless the "document" doubles as a lifetime warranty, it's about as usefull as tits on a boar. Although these may soothe one's fears, they cannot inflict authenticity on a fake. However, for high dollar items these can amount to a legal warranty of sorts should the item later come into question. There are a few dealers whose reputations are such that a COA from them will make the item easeir to sell in the future, although one will probably have paid double market price in the first place.

He's European. I know I'll get yelled at for profiling, but the German dealers know that Americans are suckers for an accent. "It came from GERMANY!" Oooooo. Ahhhh. Some of the best fakes come from eastern Europe and are contracted for German (and French, Russian, British and a few American) dealers. In Europe, passing fakes seems to be more of a sport than in the US. Probably for two reasons: The cost of living is horrid. Many full time dealers who used to be honest, simply cannot find enough real stuff to make a living with. Secondly, sarcasm. Imagine seeing a bunch of Japanese strutting around the show dressed as General Lee? Nailing the stupid Americans is fun! And profitable. Yes, there are many honest European dealers, but do not put extra stock in them simply based on the romance of the accent.

Ebay and other Online Auctions:
The above tips go double for ebay sellers. One of the most obscene sellers on ebay sets off every alarm and waves every red flag imaginable and yet continues to prosper. I watch his antics just for entertainment. It's like watching a train wreck over and over...I am beginning to think is seeing just how far he can push things. He plays every card imaginable and takes advantage of every opportunity. He's like the perfect little storm...
Here is a short list of warning signs:
Multiple identities: My favorite Peepa King is currently using at least 4 different I.D.s. It takes a little while to put them all together, but writing styles, photo backgrounds and the merchandise is all similar. If you are a legitimate business, why hide behind several different names? Feedback...
Feedback: Feedback is overrated. To be sure, much negative feedback can effectively ruin a business. However, since it's reciprocal, many buyers are afraid to blast a crook because they know that they will get some in return. Mr. Peepa has discovered two ways around it. One, when one of his "aliases" gets a few red marks, he changes the name and starts over. Or, he simply lets one ID lay dormant for a few months and uses the others to avoid having more than one or two negatives on any one of them. Two, he apparently harangues Ebay and the customer and in most cases manages to get the negatives "mutually withdrawn". Even one negative feedback for selling fakes as original should be enough to make you avoid the seller or require a money back return option. One more advantage is that your aliases can buy things from one another and leave nauseatingly complimtenary feedback. It appears Mr. Peepa fantasizes about himself quite a bit.
Want to know how many times each name has been changed? Click on the seller's feedback number, then "more options" on the top right of the feedback page and choose "View ID history".
Location: Mr. Peepa prefers to use "USA". If you are legitimate, why not the city and state? He is careful never to reveal his name or address in any of the auctions. Probably because if you google his real name all sorts of lurid details come up. I'd hide too. I've been tempted to buy something small just to see to who one makes the money order out to and where the PO Box is located.
Private Auctions: Although there is a reason for these, especially on auto auctions, most miltiaria vendors who use them are simply preventing bidder's from communicating (warning) one another about con artists.
No Paypal: Yes, there are legitimate reasons many vendors don't take paypal. However, Peepa Kings don't like it because too many customer complaints can get your account frozen or (horrors) they may actually be able to demand (and get) a refund.

Return Polices: Ask all questions before bidding. In other words, "Finders keepers". Mr. Peepa seemed to have some trouble with this so he now has a 3 day exchange for "other merchandise". In effect he's keeping your money no matter how badly he screws you. If an online seller has a "no return" policy or something ridiculously short (like 24 hours) then he has something to hide. And you don't need to find out what it is, unless you just like to waste money.
Despite having something of a "return" policy, Mr. Peepa and several of his buddies also have the caveat that returns are only allowed in cases of the item being grossly misrepresented in their descriptions. Wow.

Bottomline about Ebay...Avoid sellers if:
If it's too cheap it's probably fake.
If no one else is bidding on a great deal, then there's a reason.
If there's no return policy, run.
If the dealer won't tell you who he is. There's a reason and it isn't good.
If he has any negatives for selling fakes, it's probably true. And he's not likely to change his spots for you.
If he has 100% positive feedback, that's nice but may also mean that he's not pissed off anyone brave enough to take the hit yet.
If they have other auctions running with items you can tell are questionable.
Have more confidence if:
They offer a money back return policy.
They accept credit cards. (Too many complaints and the bank won't let you.)

The story: This is one of the first places you can size up your dealer.
"It's a vet purchase". In other words, don't question it, there's no doubt. Trust me! Yea, right. Although vets do sell things, this is the A number one excuse I've heard or seen over the years. If it has capture papers or more documentation, maybe. But be extra suspicious. Currently, there is one yo-yo on ebay that is damned uncreative. He has a dozen or so items running each week. Every one is a "vet buy". But he's sneaky...he doesn't always use the same line. Amongst the items, there are: "Bought from a sister of a vet," "bought from the grandson of a vet", "bought from a cousin of a vet" and "bought from the wife of a vet". Oh, yes, and most were also found at yard sales (vet's family) and two items were "hanging on rusty nails in an old garage". All of these in one auction cycle. Most look to be fake.
"Special late war model/ modification/ version.": This is used when the item doesn't conform to the normal style of whatever it is. A big favorite of a few German dealers with early East German "Volkssturm 1955...whoops1945" items. If it don't look right, it probably ain't.
"The experts said it's good." What experts? Where are they? Can I ask them?
"I'm selling this for a friend": In other words, "I'm not responsible. Give me your money and go away." Be careful.
"Field Made": A variation of the second story. Most likely the "field" is his garage.

Common Myths
"It can't be faked." If it's worth money, you can bet someone will try. Always be suspicious.
"They wouldn't have done that." Soldiers are frightened, stressed out young men trying to survive. They often do some creative things to their uniforms and equipment. They are not collectors admiring the fine patina of the emblem on their cap. Study original photos carefully and all sorts of oddities will appear. The Germans were real pros at this.
"All of X had Y". Not usually. Most items were made in quantities of several thousand to several million. Usually by numerous manufacturers. There are deviations from the accepted "norm" in most cases. Not all Jump Jackets are the same shade of khaki. Dammit!
"German sewing machines have a special, unique stitch count." Twit. Be quiet. All sewing machines have an adjustment for stitch length. Both the US and Germany were heavily dependent on one main brand of sewing machine. Singer.
"It talks to ya..." No, the guy trying to sell it to you is talking. Use sense.

Some Facts that may help:
General:
1. Most aging techniques are very, very simple. A little heat, some filthy water and patience...Presto! It's old!
2. Although possible to do perfectly, many aging jobs can be detected in this way: The rust should not have paint on top of it. If the piece is stripped completely and redone, this can be avoided, but many criminals simply try to add say a 3 color "Normandy" camo to an original helmet.
3. Sloppy stitching. No-no. Although many German items in particular can have some skipped or missing stitches (even when unissued) sloppy stitching throughout is an indicator of someone using a lightweight machine in their kitchen that is struggling to penetrate the heavier fabrics.
4. Double needle stitches. U.S. Products are normally very well made, with the proper folders and binders that give consistent, even stitching. Fake USMC helmet covers can often be detected this way. Check the distance between the stitch rows. They should be even all the way (usually 3/8" - 1/4"). Double needle machines have fixed dual needles..they cannot deviate from one another. A double stitch made with a single needle, unless the operator is a real pro, will always "wobble" slightly.
4. Smell it. If it smells like paint, mineral spirits, cold blue or fabric softener, there's likely a problem.
5. Blacklights are bullshit! They only highlight white fibers and lint. Modern white thread can be soaked in tea and that will fix the blacklight crap.
6. There are near flawless copies of all medals on the market. I trust nothing unless it comes from a vet in an old cigar box for $5.
7. Hand stitching happened. Alot. Don't bet on something based purely on that aspect.
8. Large sizes should always be given extra scrutiny. They are unusual, but not unheard of.

US W.W.II:
1. Zippers cannot be duplicated. In the 1960's, the machinery used to make them was changed. If you study W.W.II models and compare them to modern ones, the differences are obvious. That is a dead giveaway to fake jump uniforms.
2. Not all uniforms had spec labels.
3. The blank "Phila. Quartermaster" labels were used for odd special order sizes, like 32 X 39 trousers (have a pair) or a 39 XL Ike jacket.
4. Real jump uniforms do NOT all use zinc snaps. Black brass, plain brass and zinc plated were all used.

German W.W.II
1. Most (but not quite all) Nazi period uniforms use a hand sewn or a bartack style keyhole buttonhole. (the base of the hole has a rectangular bartack). US uniforms nearly all use a flybar. (The "legs" of the buttonhole simply cross to close it.)
2. The lettering on "Prym" snaps is spread more than halfway around the socket from about 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock. If it says "Original Prym" it's fake. Sometimes people grind off the "Original", leaving a tight, condensed "Prym" lettering. The letters should have at least one letter space between each of them.
3. SS smocks, zelts and helmet covers were all cut from the same fabric! These monkeys that offer smocks "made from heavy twill, not like a zelt" are moronic amateurs.
4. On all German camo items, having some parts (pocket flap, sleeve, etc.) made from another shade or even another pattern of fabric is a good thing.
5. I have never seen chain stitching on any W.W.II German item. (Look at the inside seam on your jeans or BDU's) to see a chain stitch. It looks like tiny figure 8's (i.e.: a chain) on the inside.
6. Insignia: Real "BeVo" has a distinctly silky feel. Repros feel course.

Basically, collecting is not easy and it's work. I know many of you were hoping for a detailed, blow by blow guide on every item on how to tell whether or not it's "real." That would take years to write and it would be obsolete 10 minutes after it was printed. There is no magic bullet (unless you have a friend that can do radio carbon dating) in this field. You need to educate yourself about your desired field of collecting, be suspicious and above all use common sense. If you lack that last skill, find another hobby. Unless you enjoy to going to the proctologist!

Please don't start sending us pictures of items in question or asking for advice. We are NOT an appraisal service and we don't have time to spare to go round and round advising you on your shopping choices. This is all the info I have to offer. If it's sounds like a lot of work, sorry, that's how it is.


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