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Cap Toe Roughout Service Shoes
Type III Cap Toe Roughouts

: $1,299.99

Cap Toe Roughout Size*:

Product Description Sizing Information

Currently unavailable.

There will be no restock of US Made boots. That factory has decided to downsize and private label boots like ours will no longer be offered.

As of now (2024) we appear to be making progress with a large US boot manufacturer with production facilities overseas. If all works out, we may have high quality boots in 2025. That is all the information available.

New, USA made WWII US Army Cap Toe "Roughout" Service Shoes. Officially called "Service Shoes, Reverse, Upper" by the US Army Quartermaster, (as well as "Type III Service Shoes" in official correspondence). These shoes were designed to replace the russet brown Type I and Type II Service Shoes that had been standard issue to all soldiers and airmen since the 1930's.

History: In the Fall of 1942, the US Army Quartermaster developed the "Type III" service shoe. The new boots looked very similar to the ones issued during the First World War. The most obvious change from the previous models was the leather being turned flesh side out, which was more water repellent, especially once dubbing was applied. Most had a full rubber sole, although some were made with hobnails.

These are reproductions of first production batch of the new shoes. The toe caps and riveted stays were dropped from the specifications in the Summer of 1943, meaning only those Type III's produced in the first 6 months had them. Originals examples of this pattern boot are now extremely hard to come by as most were issued and worn out during the War.

Rush shipments were sent to England during the late Spring of 1944 in anticipation of "Operation Overlord", the invasion of Normandy. Replacement troops would have been largely equipped with this style, and its prevalence increased as the War went on. Production continued into the postwar period until they were replaced by the Combat Service Boots.

ATF's Boots: In the Fall of 2013, we began the task of contracting WWII boots in the United States. It took three years to get these from the drawing board, into production and delivered. The main problem was that correct WWII style soles and heels are no longer available, so we approached Goodyear Tire & Rubber who we have dealt with in the past. This ended up involving several attorneys, lots of paperwork, and a license agreement. They had to renew their trademark on "Wingfoot" and then we began developing the old designs with their contractor and the boot factory. We own the molds and are the exclusive licensee for these soles.

Once the rubber was sorted out, we sat down with HH Brown and went over the original boots, making numerous small changes from their previous products. The leather color and thickness, stitch patterns, toe shape, and nail patterns all came directly from original examples. In 2002, I had been persuaded to purchase 10,000 pairs of original WWII nylon service shoe laces by a surplus dealer who was retiring. 14 years later, we found a good use for them.

Sizes: Our sizes are accurate as per US government specifications, and it is the same as the US military uses. Do not "order up" as the sizes were designed to allow for the wearing of cushion sole socks and feet to swell. These usually correspond well to most leather work and hiking boots. If you've spent your entire life in Skechers and shower shoes, or are unsure, it's best to visit a shoe store and have your feet measured on a Brannock device.

We cannot have EE sizes (wides) made at this time because they will require new molds for wider soles & heels from Goodyear which would cost $21,800. We simply don't sell enough wides to pay for the them.

Roughout boots need to be greased.
Treat these boots! The US Army designed these boots with flesh-out uppers in order to improve their water repellency. This required "dubbing", which was a beeswax based leather treatment. It was issued with the boots and soldiers were required to apply it to their boots as part of their basic equipment maintenance. If you leave them untreated, they will have very little water repellency, and the light color will easily show stains. To accurately portray WWII military personnel, roughout footwear needs to be greased, as this was the first task given to the men when they were issued new boots. They did not fight wearing buff colored boots.

The modern equivalents are Huberd's Shoe Grease or Sno-Seal. We have them on our accessories page, or you can find them on Amazon. Sno-seal used to be available in shoes & outdoor stores, but last year I tried in vain to find it at Walmart, Cabela's and Bass Pro and no one had it anymore. That's what led to us getting our own distributorships. Mink oil and original WWII "Dubbing" also work.

Yes, the color change is as dramatic as the photo. The dubbed boots were treated once, wetted, then worn for an afternoon until they dried to break them in. That's it.

Laces: Our Service Shoes are made with genuine, 40" WWII production (August 1943) nylon laces. This is the size issued in all service shoes during the War. The shoe size has no effect on what length lace is needed- the eyelet run is the same length on all sizes. That said, a few people have wanted longer laces. We will have some longer, new production laces available later this year.

Made in USA