7-8 oz. American cowhide from Hermann Oak. Steel lace, "coffin staples" correct markings.	Hilt retaining strap with Segma snaps. Wire hook allows attachment to pistol and cartridge belts	Includes 50" leg strap.	I lack an unissued M6 so comparisons are with one of our reproductions oiled once.
Phosphate coated steel plates with correct shape rivet caps.	Domed rivet heads exactly like original.	Maker stamp & ordnance bomb are separate stamps. Thread is golden tan.	The golden tan thread of the original is clearly seen in this view.
Shown with M3 Trench Knife. Will fit original and properly sized reproductions.	Reproduction M3 Knives sold separately.	Originals and ours showing how oil and use darkens the leather dramatically.	More originals for reference. Note minor variations among even though they are all the same maker.

New, American made M6 leather scabbards for the M3 Trench Knife. These are hands down the best reproductions available anywhere. We spent six months acquiring the exact tooling, hardware, thread, and leather. These are manufactured by us, with all domestic materials. Yes, they several times more expensive than the dime store reproductions from Asia, but the quality and authenticity are heads and tails superior.

Many enthusiasts misidentify the M3/ M6 as a "paratrooper knife & scabbard". In reality, the M3 Trench Knives with M6 Scabbards were introduced in early 1943 and were intended to for issue to all soldiers equipped with the M1 Carbine. The M3 was an immediate hit with the troops as it was far handier than a bayonet as a utility and fighting knife. For this reason it was naturally a magnet for all troops, especially Paratroopers and Rangers. However, they were not exclusive to those units.

The leather M6's tended to wear out quickly so they were replaced by the fiberglass M8 scabbard in early 1944. In turn, a bayonet, the M4, was subsequently designed for the Carbine and it began to replace the M3 Knife in the Fall of 1944.

M6 Scabbards: There were six manufacturers of the M6 Scabbard. Each one had its own peculiarities in thread color, staples, rivets and caps. Milsco was the most numerous, and happened to be the design for which the correct hardware was still available. These scabbards feature a leather body which is stitched, riveted and stapled. The opening is reinforced with steel lace and the bottom has thin steel plates on each side to keep the tip of the blade from wearing through. An eyelet is placed at the bottom to permit the use of a leg tie, and there is the standard wire hook at the top for attachment to pistol or cartridge belts. Finally there is a loop under the hilt strap, through which a utility strap can be passed to fasten the scabbard to one's leg, arm or fieldgear.

ATF's Scabbards: We had all the parts custom made for these. Steel rule dies to cut the parts, correct size and font stamps, parkerized steel plates, 5/16 shaft steel rivets, odd size steel lace, and custom dyed linen thread. Yes, most original US leather gear is sewn with gold colored thread. not white. No one ever seems to get this right. We did. Unlike even the high end scabbards that appear from time to time, we have the correct rivet heads and caps- this has always been one of the immediate give-aways to identify fakes.

There are only two "imperfections" that allow one to distinguish these from originals: the lip of the eyelet is slightly larger and the back of the segma snap post is differs from original Milsco made scabbards. We are actively hunting both parts.

Color: New "in the box" M6's were not russet or chocolate brown. They were undyed, pale tan, just like leather slings and holsters. Original scabbards in that condition today are extremely hard to find and fetch $1500+. For those in disbelief, the new book "US and Allied Military Knives" by Bill Walters is the best reference available. Yes, it's a book and it costs money. Luckily, Bill lives near me and he was kind enough to let us examine mint scabbards for our reference.

How to make them the socially acceptable brown? Two simple options. One, just use the thing. Time, sunlight, sweaty hands, rain and exposure will gradually darken the leather. Two, to speed things up, Neetsfoot oil. Just wipe it on and work it in with a rag. Allow to dry before doing subsequent coatings. Do not immerse any leather in a bucket of oil or any other cockamamie nonsense!


Made in USA