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Texled German WWII Lowboots
Texled German WWII Lowboots

: $379.99

Texled Lowboot Size*:

Product Description

Texled reproduction WWII
German lowboots

Soles secured with cement, heavy cord,
and wood pegs. The bond from the cement
alone is essentially unbreakable.

Flesh out toe, grain uppers

Stacked heels, correct
internal heel cups

"Shark nose" profile

Tapered heels

Internal steel shanks, offset heel

Forged steel, two-prong
hobnails, not cast

Blackened, greased, and polished

WWII sizing tables
from Hdv 337

One of the originals we
copied to make these (the mate
is still at the factory)

Some of our original
lowboots used for
reference/ accuracy
New Texled brand reproduction WWII German Schnurschuhe by ATF. Our boots are the best available- we spared literally no expense creating these- and included a one year warranty to prove it. With proper maintenance, these should be the last pair of lowboots one ever needs.

These are an entirely new product, with zero connection to any other or previous brand or generation of repro boots in the universe. Three years ago we started with a clean slate, and partnered with a US shoe manufacturer to rectify the shortcomings of just about all other (past & present) WWII German boots.

As usual, we started with authentic period boots from which the patterns were developed, and then had cutting dies and custom lasts made. We then had a light brown, vegetable tanned leather specifically made to match the unissued original boots. These are made from genuine North American cowhide, not Asia water buffalo.

These are the most typical variant of the WWII Schurschuhe, with grain out quarters and flesh out, unboxed, tapered profile toes. They have stacked heels, external halfsoles, and 9 pairs of eyelets. (Originals could have 6-10 pairs of eyelets or a combination of hooks and eyelets). Eyelets are either blackened or zinc plated steel (light gray/ silver) depending on the batch. Both were used in WWII.

Yes, they have the history-critical wood pegged soles. Those little things necessitated the boots be made at the manufacturer's plant in Mexico since their facility on this side of the border lacked that ability. Like WWII boots, the soles are stitched and pegged in place. Unlike the old models, the soles and heels on our boots are also chemically bonded together and to the uppers. There should be zero heels falling off, soles flapping like beagle tongues nor cracking arches or anything else of the like.

Laces: Our boots are fitted with dark leather laces. (Originals used either leather or waxed fabric lacing.)

Hobnails: The nails were a major obstacle- actually, doing them correctly was the challenge. At one point we found a German company that thought they could make them, but failed. Only the Communists were able to pull it off- but they ended up costing more than originals. Most (likely all) of the reproduction nails are cast, usually from a mix of zinc, aluminum and manganese. They are brittle and don't stay in very well. We were able to get forged steel nails made, like originals. They are the factory type nails with two sharp, slightly curved prongs- when hammered in, they spread, making them very tough to remove, a bit like porcupine quills.

Heel Irons: Like the nails, our heel irons are not the usual cast reproductions that wear quickly and often crack. Ours are steel, with the offset "hidden" nails- the most prevalent type found on WWII boots.

Sizing: We used metric sizing for our German boots- it's very simple to use and accurate. If you know your metric or US size, no problem. We put them both in the dropdown box.
How do these run? On the money.

IF ARE CONFIDANT OF YOUR US SHOE SIZE, simply order that and be done with it. Again, IF YOU KNOW YOUR US SIZE, order that.

If you are unsure of your US shoe size...

...then measure your foot. Wearing socks, stand on a piece of paper, and trace the edge of your foot. Then measure from the toe to heel at the longest points in centimeters. Then add 2.5. This has worked very well in all but a few cases.

Example: My foot is 27cm. So, add 2.5 = size 29.5. They fit like a glove.

Explanation: The metric size is the length of the last the boot is formed on, which is then the inside length of the boot. You need about 1" (2.5cm) of wiggle room in shoes. If you order your actual foot length, your toes will be smashed against the front of the boots. That's how this works.

Widths: Regular and wide. In the metric size this is represented by "6" (regular) or "9" (wide). Very simple.

Custom sizes/ boots? Not possible.

Warranty: 1 year repair or replacement in the event of sole and/ or heel failure. This is null & void if the problem is due to wear & tear, failure to maintain the leather, misuse or abuse (such as drying in an oven.) As the bottoms are chemically bonded on, a loose stitch or lost pegs will not cause the sole or heel to fall off. This means if the sole snaps in half or falls off, we'll deal with it. If you run marathons in them and wear the soles down to nothing, it's up to you to go see a cobbler.

Color: The German military issued their boots in brown. The individual soldiers then blackened and polished them as part of setting up their kit. Why was this done? We aren't sure. Are we sure of this? Yes. 100%. It's historical fact.

German troops BLACKENED their boots! If these are going to be used for WWII reenactments, real history says they must be dyed black. Yes, I know, many a Panzergrenadier Snuffynuts sport beige lowboots. The real men of the Wehrmacht wore BLACK boots- they did not look like Wallabies from 1984. They were black, black, BLACK. Unissued original boots are indeed brown- but used ones are black 99% of the time.

Care/ break in: Unlike modern boots, these require the wearer to break them in- if you try to do a 10 mile hump right out of the box, you and your feet will regret it. Break in is essentially molding the boots to your feet, and it's easy to do. First, dye your boots, then "dub" them with some form of shoe grease- Snoseal and Huberd's being the best and comparable to one another. Polish them if you choose. Afterwards, simply get them wet (I fill them full of water and let them sit for a few minutes), then put them on and wear them around until they are dry. Periodically (depending on how and how frequently you use them) they will need another coat of shoe grease.

Wet boots: Never EVER dry them with heat- that means do not place them in front of a fire, in an oven, a clothes dryer or any other heating device. Simply let them air dry- stuffing newspapers inside will help draw the moisture out faster.

  • -Copied directly from original WWII boots
    -Made from genuine, veg tanned North American cowhide
    -tapered toe
    -pegged soles
    -stacked heel
    -steel shank
    -1 year warranty against sole and heel separation or breakage